Category Archives: Piano

Information about Specific Piano Brands

 

Please note:  The following material was written by Martha Beth Lewis, Ph.D.

 

People ask me all the time about this piano or that one.  Here is what I think of certain pianos.  (If it’s not listed here, there’s a 98% chance I have never heard of it, let alone played it.)  Ok, here goes!

Aeolian:  This company owned many brands, among them:  Knabe, Mason-Hamlin, Chickering, George Steck, and H.F. Miller. (In fact, at one time they controlled over 40 brands!). All of these brands were made in the Aeolian factory.

Baldwin:  Good piano.  Many concert grands are Baldwins.  In general, you can’t go wrong with a Baldwin. Excellent quality up to 1970. Quality problems on some actions beginning after about 1970. Concerts grands of 7’0″ and 9’0″ had Renner actions and so were better quality. (A piano action is the moving parts inside.) Baldwin had various owners until it filed for bankrupcy. Gibson Guitar bought the assets in 2001 and is trying to focus on building a piano that lives up to the Baldwin tradition. Gibson’s Baldwins do seem to have better quality, but there is not much production by which to judge this, although production seems to be increasing lately. Other brands owned under the Baldwin “umbrella”: Wurlitzer, Cable, Chickering, Ellington, Howard, Kranick & Bach, Hamilton.

Bechstein:  This is a high-end instrument.  If I were buying a new piano for myself, I’d look at this one, as long as it were not a modern one.  German.  Bechstein recently bought by Samick.

Bluthner:  Good piano.  Can be expensive.  German.

Bosendorfer:  Another high-end instrument.  I’d look at this one, also. Bought jointly by Kimball (which now makes hotel and office furniture) and an Austrian bank (with Austrian government backing).  Last Austrian/Viennese piano company left, out of the hundreds in business in Vienna in the 1800s. Austrian.

Boston:  Very good piano.  This piano is made by Kawai.  It was designed by and is marketed by Steinway, but not made by them – – this is not clear in their advertising! I’d look at this one, too. A Boston is better than a standard Kawai because it is built in Kawai’s “better” factory. Uprights (44″-52″) and grands. American. 

Cable: Cable was one of the brands owned by Baldwin. Cable may be in current production, but if the company exists, the pianos would be made in China or Indonesia. Be careful about quality.

Chickering:  Excellent prior to 1960 and even better before 1932, but age of the instrument will be an issue in regards to condition. Quality declined after 1960. Rochester factory closed 1982 and Memphis factory in 1985. Names sold to various manufacturers. American. Chickering had no product between 1982-1985. The piano was made in the US by Wurlitzer from 1986-88. Baldwin purchased Wurlitzer in 1994 and produced Chickerings between 1994 and 2001. Baldwin went bankrupt in 2001, and Gibson Guitars purchased the company and all its associated brands. Chickerings are no longer being made.

Charles Walters: High quality. Hand made, excellent actions, beautiful cabinets. Primarily uprights, but now make a 6’5″ grand. I’d look at this piano seriously. American (built in Wisconsin).

Ellington: Part of the “Baldwin group” (now owned by Gibson). China. Be careful.

Estonia: Good piano.  Grands only.  Estonia.  (Note:  There are many piano company names emerging from the dust caused by the fall of the Soviet Union. For now (2006), avoid these.  The Belaruse, for example, is a horrible piano.  But it’s cheap!  Forget it. It’s the worst piano on the market.) Do not confuse these post-Soviet pianos with the Estonia, however! The Estonia is a very good piano because the Soviets left the factory alone, probably because Estonia was so far from Moscow and made few enough instruments that it was not worth the Soviet government’s effort to take over the factory. 

Falcone: Can be a good instrument. Sold trademark to Knabe (1983), but the company never did anything with it.

Faziolo:  Good piano.  Also on the high end.  Italian.

Grotrian:  Good piano, generally speaking.  Also on the high end.  German.

Howard: Once owned the Baldwin; owned by Gibson. Quality varies.

Ibach: German Piano. Very high end

Kawai:  I like this piano a lot.  Very good piano. Make sure you know which factory manufactured the one that interests you. You want the “good factory.” Japanese.

Knabe:  Knabe product is medium quality and price now. Bought by American Piano (1908), then Aeolian (1932). Aeolian’s Baltimore factory closed about 1932, and production moved to Aeolian’s plant in New York. It was sold when Aeolian went into backruptcy (1982). Falcone bought the tradmark in 1983, but there was no production and no Knabe factory of any kind. Company then sold to Bernard Greer (1989), and factory and no production. Then it was bought by MSR/Burgett (1996). (MSR – – Music Systems Research – – is the maker of PianoDisc, a computer product that can transform an acoustic piano into a player piano.) There was no Knabe production between 1982 and 1996. Starting in 1996, Knabe then produced by Young Chang (Korea). It was sold (~2000) to Samick (Korea). The current Knabe product is medium in quality and price. Korean. Also see comments under Chickering. Kimball:  Ok to not-very-ok.  American.  Kimble is now making office and hotel furniture.  They also are partial owners of Bosendorfer.

Kohler and Campbell:  Ok.  Company makes pianos under its own name, but also makes house brands (as for Schaffer and Sons).  American/etc./ask.

Kranich & Bach: Not-so-ok to poor (the current production). This company, established in 1864, was bought by Aeolian in 1932. Quality is good thru the 1950s (America) but has declined precipitously since. Production contiuned in Aeolian’s plant in Memphis until Aeolian’s bankruptcy (1982). Wurlitzer bought the company (1985) and sold it to Baldwin (1995). When Baldwin went bankrupt, it was part of the package bought by Gibson. China. Mason and Hamlin:  Ok to good.  See comments under Chickering. Mason was sold to Falcone in 1983 (America), then to Bernard Greer in 1989 (America), then to Premier possibly in 1993 (America), and went bankrupt in 1995. Purchased by 1996 Music Systems Research (maker of PianoDisc; Sacramento, CA). Factory presently in Haverhill, MA. Current Mason & Hamlin pianos are excellent quality and are sold by Colton Piano Company (chain in Northern CA ). American.

Petrof:  Good piano.  Czech.

Pleyel:  Good piano.  Rare. This piano is an antique, so you really need a technician to evaluate it for you. French.

Samick: Often a stencil brand.  Ask.  Ok to medium quality. Can’t last more than 5 yrs in my opinion.  Korean.

Schimmel:  Very good piano. German.

Steinway:  This is many people’s dream piano.  German/American.  Bought by CBS, who put no money into the business and squeezed out as much money as possible from its reputation.  Then bought by Selmer (the brass instrument company). We don’t know much about quality of the Steinway instrument under the Selmer regime. If you want an “authentic Steinway,” you’ll have to buy an older model. Ask your tech for details. Steinway makes uprights (45″ and 52″), as well as grands.

Sohmer:  Pianos made by the original factory are good.  Bought by Pratt-Read (makers of piano actions – – that’s the moving parts inside) and then sold to a player piano company.  There is no longer a Sohmer factory.  Currently (2006), there is a lawsuit brought against a Chinese firm that is using a name that has Sohmer in it (Sohmer and Company). American.

Story and Clark:  Stencil brand.  Some pianos come from Asia; ask.  Ok.  American.

Yamaha:  Holds value well, even uprights.  Bright treble.  Japanese.

Young-Chang.  German technicians help set up this company.  Good piano.  Korean. Sold to Samick, the quality went down, and Young-Chang is now in bankruptcy.

Young-Chang. Started in 1956 by the Kim brothers (Jai-sup, Young, and Chang) to assemble Yahamas for the South Korean market. Spun off in 1975. Sold to Samick, but the sale was not approved by Korean goverment and fell through. Young-Chang is now in bankruptcy. 

Weinberg:  Light touch. Bright Treble after a few years (about 5yrs) Korean

Wilhelm Tell:  Ensemble in Shanghai.  Parts from Switzerland.  

Wurlitzer:  Ok to not-so-ok piano.  Now made by Baldwin. Baldwin bought Wurlitzer in 1985. Wurlitzer, in turn, had bought Chickering (1983), Kranich & Bach (1985), and Cable (1985). Wurlitzers are now made in China (though there may be a few made in the US by Baldwin [Gibson]).

 

( Article taken from:  http://www.serve.com/marbeth/piano_brands.html )

 

Copyright 2011, Martha Beth Lewis, Ph.D.  Used with permission.   marthabeth.com  Please contact her for permission to reproduce this material for your students or your site.  This material is   her property and may not be used without permission.  Thank you for honoring copyright.


Choosing A Piano

 

Please note:  The following material was written by Martha Beth Lewis, Ph.D.

 

Here are some general thoughts on piano brands:  which ones are good, which ones to stay away from.  Please note that these are my personal opinions.  Instruments from the same manufacturer differ from year to year, and within a given year!  In the same way some cars are just lemons. It also may make a difference in which factory the instrument was made.  Sometimes a company (Yamaha, Kawai) has factories of different “qualities,” so piano quality is affected by the factory made the particular piano you are looking at/seeking.

German-sounding names are often chosen by non-German manufacturers because Germany has such a good reputation for piano-building, at least in the past.  Just because it’s a German name doesn’t mean it was made in Germany or by German expatriates or at a factory founded outside of Germany by Germans.  Inquire. 

As of this date (2006), Chinese pianos are usually of inferior quality.  A decade or two ago, this was true of Korean pianos and Japanese pianos before that, so expect Chinese instruments to improve in quality.  The Russians also are making pianos now.  I wouldn’t expect good quality from them [yet?], so buy a Russian/former Soviet Union country piano very cautiously.

Stencil brand pianos (sometimes called store brands) are common in the US.  These are like the house brands at a grocery store.  A piano store (usually a nation-wide or at least a regional piano company) buys these from a factory and puts a name on it. Therefore, many “different brands” of pianos – – at varying price points – – are actually from the same factory. And could, in fact, be the same model except for the brand name!

Also note that some factories buy parts from all over the world.  An American company can buy German actions (that’s the “guts” of the piano).  Sometimes a company with a good reputation farms out its manufacturing process to a country with cheaper labor rates.  For example, Pratt-Read, which makes actions, moved their factory to Mexico, with disastrous results because the labor was unskilled (and sometimes didn’t show up for work!).  You can find Chinese parts in non-Chinese instruments. And, in a curious turn-around, some Japanese pianos are manufactured in America and Europe!

Similarly, sometimes a piano factory sold its brand name to another piano maker, usually an Asian company.

With the serial number (and name) of a piano you are examining or thinking of purchasing, your tech should be able to furnish you with exact information about where the piano was made and when, whether this date was before the company was sold and/or acquired new manufacturing equipment, what kinds of parts were used and where those were manufactured, and so forth. 

I’ll say again that you need a tech to examine any used instrument. Don’t agree to buy a piano on your first visit to a dealership unless you love it and everything about it, including the price, AND you have taken your tech along. 

Types and Sizes

There are only two kinds of pianos – – grands, uprights – – but there are several sizes in these general categories.

Grands:

  • “parlor” (sometimes called “petite”):  4’5″ to 5’5″
  • “baby”:  5’0″ to 6’5″
  • “medium” (sometimes called “parlor,” “living room,” or “medium studio”): 5’6″ to 6’5″
  • “semi-concert” (sometimes called “professional”): 6’6″ to 8’0″.
  • “concert”: 8’9″ to 10’2″. Most concert grands are 9′ in length

Uprights: 

  • spinet: 35″ to 39″ in height
  • consoles: 40″ to 44″ (those 39″ to 40″ are sometimes called “consolettes;” and “consoles” 40″ to 43″)
  • studio:  45″ to 47″
  • professional (sometimes called “full size”): 48″ to 52″ (Note: Prior to 1930, some uprights soared to 60″ in height.)

A “square grand” (built ~1700-1900) is always an antique piano.  “Birdcages” (~1840-1940) often are, too. Be careful with these!  You may be buying a lot of repair! (Ask your technician….) 

What You’re Looking For

Remember that you are looking primarily at the touch (a function of the action) and sound (bright treble? lots of bass?). 

Sound is a personal preference (I personally like a low bass and medium-firm touch, but this is only my opinion!)  Evaluating a piano’s sound is a lot like buying stereo speakers.  What sounds good to you

If the action is too light, it’s hard to control dynamics [loud and soft].  Also, the hand doesn’t build up much strength so that when the player sits before a piano with a firmer action, playing is quite difficult.  Pianists are prisoners of the instruments they are given (though Vladimir Horowitz toured with his own instrument and technician!).  We are not like violinists. Their violin is the same, no matter whether they are playing it in a ditch or in a concert hall.

Casework is important, but make sure the insides (action) are good.  Don’t be fooled by a gorgeous piece of furniture with inferior action….. 

…..unless you just want something upon which to perch sterling picture frames.  I am sure you’ve seen the “interior decor” magazines with a beautiful piano, lid down, in front of a window (ack!), and covered with framed pictures and a voluptuous of arrangement of roses and cost more!!! Presumably, you are reading this file because you want a piano to use!

Also know that pianos depreciate rapidly – – some more than others.  Any brand’s cheapest model is its worst piano.  Go up a level.

A piano is an investment that lasts a lifetime.  Get the best one you can stretch to afford.

An expensive brand’s upright might not be as good as another brand’s grand or vice versa.

A grand will have better tone than an upright, generally speaking, though one manufacturer’s grands will not sound as good as another manufacturer’s uprights.

A used piano should be considered seriously.  Bear in mind, however, that used pianos are a law unto themselves. Do not fail to ask your tech to physically examine any used piano you are considering! 

Pianos are as individual as children!

There you have it.  These are my opinions only.  Please do some homework before you buy! 

And remember that a beginner needs the best piano you can stretch to get her. You wouldn’t give her a bicycle with one flat tire when she’s learning how to ride it. Beginners need the fewest impediments possible!

 

( Article taken from:  http://www.serve.com/marbeth/piano_brands.html )

 

Copyright 2011, Martha Beth Lewis, Ph.D.  Used with permission.   marthabeth.com  Please contact her for permission to reproduce this material for your students or your site.  This material is   her property and may not be used without permission.  Thank you for honoring copyright.

 


Developments of the Modern Piano

Interior of an upright piano, showing the felt-covered hammers. The tuning pins can be seen at upper left. In the treble range shown, each note has three strings.

In the period lasting from about 1790 to 1860, the Mozart-era piano underwent tremendous changes, which led to the modern form of the instrument. This revolution was in response to a consistent preference by composers and pianists for a more powerful, sustained piano sound. It was also a response to the ongoing Industrial Revolution, which made available technological resources like high-quality steel for strings (see piano wire) and precision casting for the production of iron frames.

Over time, piano playing became a more strenuous and muscle-taxing activity, as the force needed to depress the keys, as well as the length of key travel, was increased. The tonal range of the piano was also increased, from the five octaves of Mozart’s day to the 7⅓ (or even more) octaves found on modern pianos.

In the first part of this era, technological progress owed much to the English firm of Broadwood, which already had a strong reputation for the splendour and powerful tone of its harpsichords. Over time, the Broadwood instruments grew progressively larger, louder, and more robustly constructed. The Broadwood firm, which sent pianos to both Haydn and Beethoven, was the first to build pianos with a range of more than five octaves: five octaves and a fifth during the 1790s, six octaves by 1810 (in time for Beethoven to use the extra notes in his later works), and seven octaves by 1820. The Viennese makers followed these trends. The two schools, however, used different piano actions: the Broadwood one more robust, the Viennese more sensitive.

By the 1820s, the center of innovation had shifted to Paris, where the Érard firm manufactured pianos used by Chopin and Liszt. In 1821, Sébastien Érard invented the double escapement action, which permitted a note to be repeated even if the key had not yet risen to its maximum vertical position, a great benefit for rapid playing. When the invention became public, and as revised by Henri Herz, the double escapement action gradually became the standard action for grand pianos, and is used in all grand pianos currently produced.

Some other important technical innovations of this era include the following:

        Use of three strings rather than two for all but the lower notes

  • The iron frame, also called the “plate”, sits atop the soundboard, and serves as the primary bulwark against the force of string tension. The iron frame was the ultimate solution to the problem of structural integrity as the strings were gradually made thicker, tenser, and more numerous (in a modern grand the total string tension can approach 20 tons). The single piece cast iron frame was patented in 1825 in Boston by Alpheus Babcock, combining the metal hitch pin plate (1821, claimed by Broadwood on behalf of Samuel Hervé) and resisting bars (Thom and Allen, 1820, but also claimed by Broadwood and Érard). Babcock later worked for the Chickering & Mackays firm which patented the first full iron frame for grand pianos (1843). Composite forged metal frames were preferred by many European makers until the American system was fully adopted by the early 20th century.
    •  
      • Felt hammer coverings, first introduced by Henri Pape in 1826, gradually replaced skillfully layered leather hammers; the more consistent material permitted wider dynamic ranges as hammer weights and string tensions increased.
      • The sostenuto pedal invented in 1844 by Jean Louis Boisselot and improved by the Steinway firm in 1874.
      • The over strung scale, also called “cross-stringing”; the strings are placed in a vertically overlapping slanted arrangement, with two heights of bridges on the soundboard, rather than just one. This permits larger, but not necessarily longer, strings to fit within the case of the piano. Over stringing was invented by Jean-Henri Pape during the 1820s, and first patented for use in grand pianos in the United States by Henry Steinway Jr. in 1859.

Duplex scaling: Treble strings of a 182 cm. grand piano. From lower left to upper right: dampers, main sounding length of strings, treble bridge, duplex string length, duplex bridge (long bar perpendicular to strings), hitchpins.

  • Duplexes or aliquot scales; In 1872 Theodore Steinway patented a system to control different components of string vibrations by tuning their secondary parts in octave relationships with the sounding lengths. Similar systems developed by Blüthner (1872), as well as Taskin (1788), and Collard (1821) used more distinctly ringing undamped vibrations to modify tone.

Today’s upright, grand, and concert grand pianos attained their present forms by the end of the 19th century. Improvements have been made in manufacturing processes, and many individual details of the instrument continue to receive attention.

Some early pianos had shapes and designs that are no longer in use.

The square piano had horizontal strings arranged diagonally across the rectangular case above the hammers and with the keyboard set in the long side, it is variously attributed to Silbermann and Frederici and was improved by Petzold and Babcock. Built in quantity through the 1890s (in the United States), Steinway’s celebrated iron framed over strung squares were more than two and a half times the size of Zumpe’s wood framed instruments that were successful a century before, their overwhelming popularity was due to inexpensive construction and price, with performance and sonority frequently restricted by simple actions and closely spaced strings.

The tall vertically strung upright grand was arranged with the soundboard and bridges perpendicular to keys, and above them so that the strings did not extend to the floor. Diagonally strung Giraffe, pyramid and lyre pianos employed this principle in more evocatively shaped cases. The term was later revived by many manufacturers for advertising purposes.

The very tall cabinet piano introduced by Southwell in 1806 and built through the 1840s had strings arranged vertically on a continuous frame with bridges extended nearly to the floor, behind the keyboard and very large sticker action.

The short cottage upright or pianino with vertical stringing, credited to Robert Wornum about 1810 was built into the 20th century. They are informally called birdcage pianos because of their prominent damper mechanism. Pianinos were distinguished from the oblique, or diagonally strung upright made popular in France by Roller & Blanchet during the late 1820s.

The tiny spinet upright was manufactured from the mid 1930s until recent times. It saved space by using a “drop action” arranged below the level of the keys.


Early history

Although there were various crude earlier attempts to make stringed keyboard instruments with struck strings, it is widely considered that the piano was invented by a single individual: Bartolomeo Cristofori of Padua, Italy. It is not known exactly when Cristofori first built a piano, but an inventory made by his employers, the Medici family, indicates the existence of a piano by the year 1700. The three Cristofori pianos that survive today date from the 1720s.

 Like many other inventions, the piano was founded on earlier technological innovations. The mechanisms of keyboard instruments such as the clavichord and the harpsichord were well known. In a clavichord the strings are struck by tangents, while in a harpsichord they are plucked by quills. Centuries of work on the mechanism of the harpsichord in particular had shown the most effective ways to construct the case, soundboard, bridge, and keyboard. Cristofori, himself an expert harpsichord maker, was well acquainted with this body of knowledge.

 Cristofori’s great success was in solving, without any prior example, the fundamental mechanical problem of piano design: the hammers must strike the string, but not remain in contact with the string (as a tangent remains in contact with a clavichord string) because this would damp the sound. Moreover, the hammers must return to their rest position without bouncing violently, and it must be possible to repeat a note rapidly. Cristofori’s piano action served as a model for the many different approaches to piano actions that followed. While Cristofori’s early instruments were made with thin strings and were much quieter than the modern piano, compared to the clavichord (the only previous keyboard instrument capable of minutely controlled dynamic nuance through the keyboard) they were considerably louder and had more sustaining power.

 Cristofori’s new instrument remained relatively unknown until an Italian writer, Scipione Maffei, wrote an enthusiastic article about it (1711), including a diagram of the mechanism. This article was widely distributed, and most of the next generation of piano builders started their work because of reading it. One of these builders was Gottfried Silbermann, better known as an organ builder. Silbermann’s pianos were virtually direct copies of Cristofori’s, with one important addition: Silbermann invented the forerunner of the modern damper pedal, which lifts all the dampers from the strings at once.

Silbermann showed Bach one of his early instruments in the 1730s, but Bach did not like it at that time, claiming that the higher notes were too soft to allow a full dynamic range. Although this earned him some animosity from Silbermann, the criticism was apparently heeded. Bach did approve of a later instrument he saw in 1747, and even served as an agent in selling Silbermann’s pianos.

 Piano-making flourished during the late 18th century in the Viennese school, which included Johann Andreas Stein (who worked in Augsburg, Germany) and the Viennese makers Nannette Stein (daughter of Johann Andreas) and Anton Walter. Viennese-style pianos were built with wood frames, two strings per note, and had leather-covered hammers. It was for such instruments that Mozart composed his concertos and sonatas, and replicas of them are built today for use in authentic-instrument performance of his music. The pianos of Mozart’s day had a softer, clearer tone than today’s pianos, with less sustaining power. The term fortepiano is nowadays often used to distinguish the 18th-century instrument from later pianos.


Piano

Piano is the general name given to a musical instrument classified as a keyboard, percussion, or string instrument, depending on the system of classification used. The piano produces sound by striking steel strings with felt hammers that immediately rebound allowing the string to continue vibrating at its resonant frequency. These vibrations are transmitted through the bridges to the soundboard, which amplifies them.

The piano is widely used in western music for solo performance, chamber music, and accompaniment. It is also very popular as an aid to composing and rehearsal. Although not portable and often expensive, the piano’s versatility and ubiquity has made it among the most familiar of musical instruments.

The word piano is a shortened form of the word pianoforte, which is seldom used except in formal language and derived from the original harpsichord with soft and loud). This refers to the ability of the piano to produce notes at different dynamic levels depending on the speed with which a key is depressed.


Piano – Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

 

Please note:  The following material was taken from  http://pianoeducation.org/pnopnfaq.html#Basics .

 

Piano – Basics and History

Q: How and why was the piano invented?
A:
The mechanical genius Bartolomeo Cristofori invented the piano around 1700. The name piano is actually a shortened version of the Italian term pianoforte, meaning soft-loud, and referring to the fact that the pianoforte could produce sound volume covering a much larger range than its predecessors, the harpsichord and clavichord. To get more of the story behind the invention and evolution of the piano, see our article The Why of the Piano.

Q: Is the piano a string instrument or a percussion instrument?
A:
The piano is really a “hybrid”–a combination of two types. It’s a string instrument because the musical tones originate in the strings; and it’s also a percussion instrument, because the strings are set into vibration by being struck with hammers.
To be historically correct, it’s classified as a “keyed zither” by musicologists.

Q: What types of piano are there?
A:
There are two basic types: Grand pianos have their strings and soundboard parallel to the floor, and Verticals (or Uprights) have their strings and soundboard turned up perpendicular to the floor. Both kinds come in different sizes and styles. Grands can be anywhere from 4 and a half to 9 and a half feet long. Uprights can be 52 or more inches high; around 45 inches (“studio uprights”); about 40-42 inches (“consoles”); and as low as 36-38 inches (“spinets”).

Q: Why does the piano have 88 keys?
A:
Well, the piano started out with only about 60 keys, same as the harpsichord–in fact it WAS a harpsichord, except that the harpsichord maker Bartolomeo Cristofori (try saying that 10 times fast!) got the bright idea of putting hammers on one (to HIT the strings) instead of plectra (to PLUCK the strings).  So the piano was invented–this was around 1700, or maybe a little before that. Anyway, as composers began to use the new instrument they started writing more and more complicated and brilliant music for it. Pretty soon, the keyboard had to expand in both directions.  By the middle of the 19th century, it had 85 notes–up to A–then finally they added the last three at the top. There’s even a piano made today–the Bösendorfer Imperial Concert Grand–which has 96 keys; the bass notes go all the way down to C.  It’s nine-and-a-half feet long and weighs almost a ton.

Q: How many strings does a piano have?
A:
It depends on the piano. Each note has three strings in the treble, two strings in the tenor and part of the bass, and only one in the very low bass. One of ours has 65 trebles (X 3=195), 12 tenor/bass (X 2=24), and 11 single low bass, so it comes out to 230. But that’s a large grand, so you need to look in your piano and count them up.

How the Piano Works

Q: How does the piano create sound?
A:
When you push down a key, the mechanism inside (the action) makes a hammer go up (in a grand) or forward (in an upright) to strike the strings. The hammer is a round stick with a head on it (it looks something like a real hammer), and the head is covered with very dense wool felt. When the string vibrates it makes a musical sound; the string is connected to a large soundboard that amplifies the sound much louder than the string could do by itself. When you let go of the key, a felt pad, called a damper, drops back onto the string and stops the sound again. When you press down the right pedal with your foot it raises all the dampers so that the strings can keep sounding.

Q: What do the pedals do and how do they work?
A: The left (soft) pedal works differently on grands and uprights.  On an upright or ‘vertical’ piano–this includes spinets, consoles, studio uprights and large uprights–the soft pedal operates a bar inside that pushes all the hammers closer to the strings, which makes it easier to play softer.  You can watch this by opening the top of the piano and looking down inside while you work the pedal. A grand is more complicated: the soft pedal slides the whole action–keys and all–over to the right a little bit so that the hammers only hit two of the three strings that are assigned to each note (only two in the bass, and if you go down far enough there’s only one).  This not only makes the sound softer, but changes the tone somewhat as well, because you’re striking those two (or one) strings with a different part of the hammer.  If you have a grand, work the soft pedal and watch how the whole keyboard shifts back and forth. 

The middle pedal was invented to be used (and named) as a sostenuto pedal on grands, which captures only those notes being held at the time with the fingers. On those uprights and consoles which employ a felt muting strip, it’s called the practice pedal. Some verticals have only two pedals, and a few (e.g., the Yamaha U3 and most Bösendorfers) have a true sostenuto mechanism. On older uprights and consoles the middle pedal is usually a bass sustain (acting like the right pedal but only on the bass register), or sometimes it’s simply hooked to the left pedal lever and works the device that moves the hammers closer to the strings.

The pedal on the right is the same on all pianos–it’s called the damper pedal, because it raises the dampers. Dampers are the wedges of felt that press on the strings to stop the sound–each key raises its own damper when you press it down, so the tone can keep sounding, but the pedal raises them all at once so that ALL the strings are free at the same time. Take a look inside your piano and watch the dampers move when you push the pedal.

Buying a Piano

Q: Is a “new” piano always better than a “used” piano?
A: Not necessarily. While several current manufacturers make fine new pianos (Yamaha and Steinway, for example), high labor costs and generally lesser quality of wood available today mean that an older piano, properly rebuilt or refurbished, may well be both a better piano and more valuable. Of course, various manufacturers’ pianos have subtly different sounds that may or may not appeal to you in the setting in which you intend to place a piano. Some pianos are “brighter” in tone and may not sound their best in a room with basic gypsum board walls. Others are more deeply resonant and might produce a more pleasing tone in that environment. It’s a matter not only of quality, but of personal taste as well.

For example, Yamaha maintains quality with the most sophisticated tooling and efficiency you could find anywhere; they sell more acoustical pianos than anybody in the world.  If you like the sound of a Yamaha, you’ve got one of the world’s top pianos; but if you don’t, there’s probably little point in trying others because they all sound and feel exactly alike. The action is perfect and the sound is brilliant, but it’s not as warm a sound as that produced by some other pianos. For more information on new vs. used pianos, please see our article on Piano Purchase Tips.

Q: Is a piano from a “good manufacturer” always good?
A: Again, not necessarily. In any given manufacturer’s legacy or current line there are some piano models that are more highly regarded than others in the line. Similarly, as companies change hands over time, the production quality may change. For example, Mason and Hamlin used to be one of the world’s great pianos, with a wonderful singing tone and an action similar to Steinway’s.  But after the Depression of the 1930s it was taken over (as were Knabe, Chickering and others) by another corporation, which turned out a much less highly regarded product with a great old name on it.  Later, M& H was revived by Falcone Co. of Haverhill, MA, and manufactured with integrity again, but they have gone out of business.  PianoDisc is now manufacturing M&H pianos again to the original designs and specifications. Most of the traditional piano names are the products of conglomerates rather than the original families, just as with so many other products. 

Q: Should I buy a spinet piano to save space?
A: If a spinet is the only choice for you due to space considerations, then go ahead. However, we tend to discourage buyers from choosing spinets for several reasons.  The so-called “drop action” is a major compromise from the normal vertical piano action in that it employs an additional lever system to ‘drop’ the entire mechanism down below and behind the keys instead of above them; this is done solely for marketing purposes, in that it enables the piano to be much lighter and lower.  But the keys are necessarily so short and the action parts so small that it tends to be temperamental and difficult to keep in regulation, as well as hard to control; also, the string lengths and soundboard area are so small that the tone is poor, especially in the bass where the low registers are extremely difficult to tune.  Finally, spinets tend to be of poorer overall quality because the products are aimed at that segment of the market in which buyers are often more concerned with styling and convenience than with music. A good alternative for many people is a console piano; they are small and relatively light, but have a direct blow action and–usually–a better sound.

Q: Can you tell me the current value of a used piano?
A: No! Many factors, including local market, model, date of manufacture, general condition, and reputation, among many others go into determining the true value of a piano. We simply don’t have all that information for any given piano. If you are contemplating buying a used piano, we strongly advise you to contact a local piano technician, preferably one who holds the “Registered Tuner/Technician” rating from The Piano Technicians Guild, for help in determining not only the current value in your market, but also what the cost of needed maintenance/repair/rebuilding might be. For definition and explanation of these terms, see our article Maintaining Your Piano Investment.

Q: Are there some good reference sources for information on pianos and piano value?
A: Yes, there are. We recommend that any piano owner or prospective owner acquire a copy of an excellent and relatively inexpensive book, The Piano Book by Larry Fine. Other good sources of information include the Pierce Piano Atlas or online at How Old Is My Piano? Piano World.

Q: Where should I locate my piano?
A: Generally, you want to locate the piano in a place which minimizes variations in temperature, humidity and lighting experienced by the piano. Do not place your piano against an outside wall. If however, that is the only room available, make sure there is at least 1 to 2 feet from the wall to the piano. Also, never let direct sunlight fall on the piano; keep all sunlight filtered or totally away from the piano. Exposure to direct sunlight can destroy the finish of the piano over time, and the heat from the sun can cause drastic changes in the soundboard, and pinblock, causing cracks and major problems. If you live at high altitude (over 5000 ft.), you must take special care with sunlight exposure, since the increased amount of UV in sunlight at high altitudes can be especially damaging.

Piano Maintenance and Tuning

Q: What can I do to determine the condition of my piano?
A: Untrained individuals should NOT attempt repairs or tuning of a piano themselves. The piano is simply too valuable to risk damage in such a misguided effort. However, you can safely do some basic examination of your piano to spot problems and help guide a trained repairer by following the procedures in our article, Diagnosing the General Condition of Your Piano.

Q: Why is a piano hard to tune?
A: A piano is hard to tune because it has more than 250 strings and they are held under very high tension, which means that the tuning pins they wrap around have to be set in a strong wooden block very tightly; and THAT means that you have to have a special wrench to turn them up or down.

The tuner starts with one string in the middle of the piano (where you can hear best) and gets the pitch for that from somewhere else, usually a tuning fork. Then he sets about 12 notes right in the same area (a chromatic scale). But if you’ve ever looked in your piano you’ve probably seen that each key has three strings (two or one in the bass)–so he has to block off the outside strings of each key with a strip of felt so only one string will sound at a time for each note. After he gets enough notes tuned in the middle he can work in both directions by listening to octaves that go with the notes already set. The final step is to pull out the strip of felt and tune the two outside strings of each note to the middle one. And that’s about it. For more information on tuning and how it is done, consult our article Piano Tuning – How It Is Done and Who Should Do It.

Oh, one more thing: DON’T TRY IT YOURSELF!

Q: What do I need to do to maintain my piano?
A: See our page, Purchasing and Caring For a Piano or Keyboard, for basic tips on piano maintenance and cleaning. You may also want to view our page, Piano Hygiene in the Teaching Studio, for information on methods for cleaning and disinfecting the keyboard of your piano.

Pianos and Lessons

Q: What kind of “starter piano” should I buy for my children to take lessons?
A: This involves many considerations, both financial and personal. For more information on some of the tradeoffs and considerations that may affect your decisions, see our article Buying a Starter Piano.

Q: Can my children start lessons using a digital keyboard?
A: Yes, though we think that most people will want to get an acoustic piano within a year after starting lessons, if not sooner. Even the best digital keyboards, which can run several thousand dollars in price, can’t duplicate the sound and “feel” of an acoustic piano, so they really can’t “replace” a piano. However, for the neophyte student, there are some “all in one” packages which provide a 3-4 octave keyboard along with learning software for under $200. In the long run, you’ll want to get an acoustic piano for your playing, though digital keyboards can be connected to your computer for composing and playing your own songs. For more information about digital keyboards and their use in lessons, please look at our articles, Digital Keyboards and Before You Start Lessons.

 

( Article taken from: http://pianoeducation.org/pnopnfaq.html#Basics )